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Every night at Valhalla, a restaurant with a $188 tasting menu located on the mezzanine of a crowded food hall in Chicago’s West Loop, Tatum Sinclair prepares infinite desserts. Infinite as in unlimited—all you can eat—desserts.
Unlike the breadsticks at Olive Garden, Tatum’s desserts are curated and customized to each diner’s preference. In theory, the concept is simple: Tatum will make you as many desserts as you’d like, so long as you finish what’s in front of you. The execution is more complex, as she preps, makes, and plates each dessert—which includes sorbets, ice creams, cakes, pavlovas, and something she describes as “the center of a cinnamon bun”—entirely by herself.